Death Valley trip report part I

I recently attended a convention in Las Vegas as part of my full time job. Since I was already going to be out there, I decided to take some vacation and visit one of the local parks. It was a relatively easy decision for me as I have been interested in going back to Death Valley since I visited for 1 day several years ago. After talking it over with my amazing wife, she decided to come along and keep me safe (be the voice of reason in my ear) while I was out in the middle of nowhere for several days. The trip turned out to be an amazing experience that I won’t ever forget. 

The first day we arrived at the Southeast area of the park, which is an area without paved roads and no signage to let you know you are on the park property. Without the aide of a map, you might not even know you are in the park. There isn’t much down on this end of the park except for Ibex Dunes which was high on my list. Ibex is a remote expanse miles off the paved road and was a logical start for us. It was only 90 minutes from Las Vegas. After driving on the dirt road for a bit, the massive dunes came into sight, but they were still several miles away. With the light fading fast we realized we weren’t going to get there in time, so we decided to take a small jaunt onto the low lying area of the Ibex Wash and just explore a bit. We walked across the flat, which was very dry. After about a mile walk, to my surprise we came across some water flowing towards the lowest point in the park. It had rained over the weekend, but I wasn’t sure if any of this part of the park saw any of it. It wasn’t much, but was enough to bring some interest into my images. We spent an hour exploring before heading back to the car in the dark. I was very excited for the days ahead. The landscape is so interesting with all of the nuances of dried crust combined with rock, vegetation and magnificent mountains. In some areas, the dried earth looks like old paint peeling off the wall after years of neglect.

Last light on the cracked playa along the Ibex Wash
Last light on the cracked playa along the Ibex Wash
Texture and sediment along the Ibex Wash
Texture and sediment along the Ibex Wash

That evening we decided to stay at the Tecopa Hot Springs Resort. It was more than adequate and had some great hot tub rooms where they pump the hot spring water right to you. After a little asking around, we decided to eat at a small shack (literally) called Steaks and Beer on the Old Spanish Trail. I was a little skeptical at first but the owner/cook/operator Eric Scott (yes he has two first names) has the best kept secret in all of the west. There is only enough room to seat 7-10 people in this place and after our visit, I left amazed there wasn’t a line out the door. I had the absolute best rib eye steak and margarita I have ever had in my life – no question. If you are ever in the area, you have to stop in and enjoy this place. You won’t be disappointed. We retired back to the resort where we took in the hot springs which is another story in itself, but was a great experience.

The following morning we woke up to some subtle rains and overcast skies, but set out for sunrise in the park regardless. We drove North through and headed into the park via the Jubilee Mountain pass on Rt. 178. At the top of the mountain we found the clouds breaking and winds shifting. The pass elevation is somewhere around 2700′ as you traverse downhill into the basin of the Valley. The lowest point in the park, also the lowest elevation in North America is 282′ below sea level. Amazing to think that you are that far under what the ocean level would be if this place weren’t dry. We took the West Side road (another dirt road) to get a better vantage point for sunrise. We came upon a location that looked promising and made our way out onto the flats just before sunrise. The wind was relentless, even with my camera bag hanging off of my tripod I had a few instances where I needed to grab onto it before it blew over. I was able to get some decent shots this morning of the sun peaking over the mountains and bathing the clouds and mountains in the morning. 

Early morning along basin road
Early morning along basin road
Jubilee Pass looking West into Death Valley
Jubilee Pass looking West into Death Valley

We planned out the rest of the day to continue North in the park, stoping at various spots along the way to take in the amazing landscape. More to follow on the second half of the trip.